Saturday, July 19, 2008

Nomads, and etc.












My time here is slowly coming to an end. Just a few days ago I was trying to stay for another year. Now I feel it is the right thing to return.

On Fri I had a hilarious day with Malika. I went to get napkins and there was a tiny stack. I said is this all that's left? She said, you know, I only put a little, because if I put a lot, X person takes a lot and when our boss asks for some there are none left.

I laughed so hard. I asked my male co-workers what they would do. They logically said they would put out all the napkins. To me this was the difference between a man and a woman, and how clever women can be. Farkhad said Malika is getting smarter and smarter, and that women are better at conserving things from what he's seen with his mom.

Malika took me to lunch at an Andijon plov place where we sat on tapchangs while we ate our meal. We also looked at the small Korean grocery stores across the street. I had some things on my mind and she said there was a fortune teller nearby, and that maybe we could go. It turns out it was an Armenian lady who reads by cards. Well, Malika was translating for me so there were certain things I couldn't answer or say. But it was an interesting and what felt to be an authentic reading. While we were waiting in the waiting room boom, Malika's mom called, and about a minute later we saw a large shadow at the door trying to make her way in. She came in with a disapproving look. I couldn't stop laughing. Her mother was so smart, it was like she has this sonic radar. I joked that wherever Malika is her mother can just sense it and find her. I told them I felt so safe, that it was like having a body guard. We went for some ice cream and then returned to the office.

Saturday night after I went to the mountains I went back to one of my favorite Korean restaurants here for dinner. The owner is the sweetest woman. We've chatted a bunch of times over the last 2 months, and she is someone I would have enjoyed conversing with and hanging out with anywhere else as well. She came into the room where I was eating and brought the cutest baby kitten ever. I have never been a fan of cats but this kitten was beautiful. The mother cat had come in as a stray. She said when it was "time" she didn't want it to mate or meet a male cat, so she would take a stick and always chase around to find the cat when it went outside. Even her husband started following suit to find the cat. But she said, just as parents can't prevent their children from going with the one they love, her beloved cat found another shop owner's cat, got "married", and was soon pregnant thereafter.

Oddly enough, before she told me which was which, I could guess 2/3 kittens genders. Even from such a small age the female acted so much differently than her brothers.

Today I went to the mountains. I originally came here to find nomads and yurts and see natural surroundings. I couldn't leave without finding my nomads.

I wasn't sure if my co-worker would oversleep, so I had a back up plan just in case. Fortunately, he showed up with our driver 40 min late and we were off.

On our way to the mountains I saw these beautiful blankets or rugs, I couldn't tell. I asked them waht they were, and I think they could tell by my voice I was genuinely intrigued. The driver drove back and it turns out they were "yo's". We have these in Korea too. The best way to describe them is an old fashioned mattress. Stuffed with real cotton (I think), a cover is then made and you put them on the floor and sleep on them. They also go on top of the tap-changs I so love here.

I had to get one though. I could envision myself rolling it out on the floor wherever I live and lying on it while watching tv or doing homework and just rolling around.

Also on our way we saw some gorgeous animals. Cows, horses, donkeys, lambs, sheep. There was a herd of sheep on our way, and the driver was kind enough to pull over. I got out of the car and frolicked with them and took as many pictures as I could. Eventually they went their way, with a small barking dog and an older man and his son following from behind.

We went to Beldersay and took a tram up to the mountains. While waiting in line I saw something so characteristic of the people here. A man had a melon under his arm randomly while waiting in line for the tram. Though it's incredibly hot right now in Tashkent due to Chilla, the mountain air was so cool and refreshing. On the top we met some nomads finally! These were Kazak nomads. To make money they allow tourists to ride their horses for a short while. I got the feisty horse who wouldn't listen. Fortunately, the owner walked with us so there weren't any problems. But I can't tell you the feeling of riding a horse on top of a mountain while looking out to all the surrounding mountains. It was completely majestic.

There was also something I am always a sucker for. While I shouldn't be surprised to find it here, I was so delighted when I did. There was a wishing tree on top of this mountain, made with torn pieces of fabric. In Japan I went to a wishing tree in a temple where you bought these beautiful wooden tablets. But here, you tied a piece of fabric to the tree and hoped for the best.

My co-worker who went with me, Kozim, was awesome. He is so good talking to people, and was able to eventually located another nomad woman who had a yurt. She too was Kazak and while she lived in a trailer just next to the yurt, she also had a turkey, 2 horses, and offered us some horse milk to drink.

We went to the Pyramid Hotel to look around, and came across another Kyrgy nomad. I took a picture with him too, and afterwards, he rode out into the mountains so fast on his horse so naturally. While I was at the hotel I also ended up buying a hat. I have a thing for hats but can never find ones I like. For some reason though I've always loved buying hats even though I never wear them.

On our way back we stopped for some Godja, a really wonderful soup to have in the summer, and one you can only get near the mountains. Made of milk, some grains, corn. I normally never drink milk, but this soup is to die for. You go to these small home kitchens on the side of the road run by local people. The proprietor and her daughter were kind enough to also offer me a taste of horse milk, which surprisingly was incredibly salty and fizzy. I also bought a bottle of homemade compote.

We went back to Tashkent and I passed out in the room. There is nothing to cure insomnia like going to the mountains or countryside.

Yesterday I got called into work and spent most of the day here. I got a lot done though so I was happy. I craved pizza again for lunch and on my way back stopped by broadway in the park to look at the paintings. There I ran into my friend's driver and we chatted a bit. I also got sick again, but this time I was glad. I could feel myself finally purging whatever had gotten me sick in the first place. The meds I had taken held back the symptoms for a few days but didn't cure it. I felt so much more relieved to finally get rid of everything. I was also so happy to see my boss' kids again. This time the little girl felt comfortable enough to let me hold her, and once again the son was quiet and peaceful in my arms.

After work I met up with a friend and had dinner at his restaurant. There was a huge tour group that came in while we were there. Strapped without his key, he had to argue his way in with the guard who yelled at us for coming so late on a Sunday night. He showed me his office which was in what looked to me like an old soviet building. On our way out we saw the guard washing his feet in the sink. It was so cute.

We walked through the park and I saw the Juliana night club and Ace, a karaoke bar run by Koreans. After a beer at the hotel bar, which was my first time seeing it, I finally wrapped up the night. One thing he said haunted me though. He said he's lived long enough to know that certain chances don't come often, that this was his last chance. I said whenever we think the door has closed, opportunities always come. Does what we believe come true, or is it that some people have more opportunities and chances than others. I don't know but I decided to try my luck last night and do something I had promised myself I wouldn't. Life has been funny here. I hope I can take these feelings, thoughts, sense of peace with me when I return.

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